Flying High on my Birthday!

This was the best brithday ever ... and thank you so much all you who sent a birthday message by email or calling!!

I was telling myself not to be disappointed if no one remembered but apparently it DOES mean a lot when people do remember ... kinda validates my existence and value to those whom I have befriended and have built a lasting relationship. Thank you thank you thank you.

I will make this brief as I am heading out on this beautiful day for another motorcycle ride through the mountains.

Yesterday, my birthday I had in mind a place I wanted to go, went upstairs to see if the owner was around just to share my plans and ask if he and his friend would be up to having a few drinks in acknowledgment of my birthday. They were not there but two Dutch guys were. To make a long day short, they ended up going with me (renting their own bikes) and we had a fab U day.

One of the guys had asked me from the start to "Please drive slow in town." I wondered about this because I WAS driving slow as he followed. The next thing I know he is flying past me with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth, heading into a one way street the WRONG way. We filled up with gas and again he asked, "Please Shaz, will you go slow?" So we were off again, riding through the windy mountain roads when I hear this same guy honking his horn madly. So I pull over as did his friend only to have the guy tell me to watch out for the pot-holes Shaz." "Yep, I am on that...in fact why don't you go first to set the pace." He paniced so off we go ... AGAIN he comes flying up next to me and is just smiling at me not looking at the road! So I slow as we were approaching a corner and he asks for me to PLEASE go first and I am thinking is this guy mental?! First he begs for me to be cautious then he does something foolish so I pull over and said to him that I am not comfortable with him pulling up next to me, either stay behind or in front but it is dangerous to stop and go and pass on curvy roads. His friend backed me up.

I am glad to say for the most part, he was better but in fact he IS Schizophrenic and on medicine. He shared this at lunch. Of course that intrigues me...I love learning about another reality so long as it doesn't put me at risk. Anyhow, he is a bit attached to me now, sometimes uncomfortably so but I will be fine. One more day with him and his friend who I really enjoy.

But I went paragliding ... it was AWESOME. The guy I described earlier took some amazing footage of me flying off the mountain. The other Dutch guy and I were in the sky over the mountains and sea for about 30 minutes. LOVED it...especially the spiral dives I begged the guide to do at the end...I figured it would be unusual to die on the same day I was born so here it is...

More later...my friends are ready to go!

Peace
Shaz

Ephesus and beyond ...

OK ... doing this the lazy way ... click on the photo to see Ephesus, the place where the Virgin Mary died and a few other photos from the area ...

There is a little town in the hills where I did a little wine tasting and considered staying there until the man at the place I wanted to stay came onto strong...totally dampened my mood and made me crabby for the rest of the night ... (the CONSTANT sexual harassment blog was a result)...but I am over it and happy where I am now here in Fethiye (March 18 2010).

K... this catches me up...

If the link on that photo doesn't work copy and paste this one into your browser:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=goddessgrads07&target=ALBUM&id=5450022950738303201&authkey=Gv1sRgCPykuNvutqDLtQE&feat=email

Back to my hotel to enjoy my first night of full on bliss!

Finally found a place to call home for a week or so ... I am presently on the second deck of a restaurant having a bowl of chicken Alfredo...I think they forgot the Alfredo, but I am very happy here in Fethiye Turkey. This is my view...more to come as I explore the mountains and villages on a motor bike starting tomorrow!!

This is where I will celebrate my birthday in 4 days!

Canceled ... where one door closes another opens

Well, the rain canceled my para gliding. Safety first. The guide laughed at my helmet.

I was kinda bummed about it so I walked up the street to a cafe where I had yet another very dry sandwich ... they often overcook the chicken and there are no sauces on it at all. I have to say, I am not all too impressed with Turkish food. I do like their rice but ... rice?!

I went across the street from this Kabab sandwich shop where there was an info center. This turned into a 3 hour visit with a well spoken Turkish guy in his early 30's. I learned of some cheaper places to stay and learned I paid 2.5 times more than the average price in this area. That is frustrating but at least I learned if I wanted to come back where to go for 15 TL which is about $11 (I paid 40TL or about $35 last night). One positive in the cancellation of the paragliding is that it was priced at 110 TL (about $70)...these other guys priced it at about $50. I may come back but there isn't a lot going on here. I did like the invitation to the cheap and nice hotel and access to a motor bike and a tour to a hot spring from my new friend. I told him if I did I had to be very clear that I had NO interest in kissing, touching and especially no sex. Though that was not the tenor I was getting from him, I am being really clear because many of the Turkish men are sex addicts. They sleep with 100's of women (no exaggeration from me-maybe them). In fact when another Turk pulled up a chair to join in the conversation just as a I was preparing to leave I metioned I needed to catch my bus but said I might come back. This new guy REALLY had that sexual energy turned on high promising me a good time. My reply to that with stone cold face was, "I think your good-time, is my nightmare." Soner said something to him in Turkish which seemed to be in my defense because the guy yelped an "oh, sorry" as I was walking down the street.

I will say, Soner was really cool. He told me about some inexpensive accommodations at the places I intend to visit. Which is good...I am spending more than I intended on accommodations...that is typically how it goes though the first few weeks until I meet others who can share where they have been and where to go.

I will be heading to Azerbaijan mid April so that works well. I was told about an airline in Turkey that I just now researched where the rates are as low as $10!!!!! from city to city inside Turkey so that will make life easier than these bus rides. Of course none of the tour agencies want to share this info because it takes from their business but now I know and can fly in and out of Istanbul for cheap!! Though transportation to and from the airport is spendy.

So here are the photos from yesterday's ancient city tour...

Entrance to City

Family burial site


This is where the men went to the bathroom. There were marble seats. In the winter the Roman's would have their slaves sit on the marble first to warm it up for their use.



At the gate



My cool tour guide.


Ancient Amphitheatre....Rumor has it that it will one day be completely restored and will be used once again.

Ancient ruins in the natural spring pool. Three times they resurrected these columns but Earthquakes in Turkey are frequent (in fact 2 since I have been here thought didn't feel them) and knocked them down.


Calcium flats--very beautiful though several (maybe most) are man made.







See this often: men and men, women and women, men and women, scrubbing and massaging each other down.

My first Turkish bath was uneventful but it was worth it once. This one was billed to be very nice ... I think nice means modernized. I can get this in America so it was OK but if I do it again I will certainly go to an old one and get a massage / scrub on a women only day.

----

I have since done the Ephesus tour and have finished my tour package. I am glad to have experienced one but I much prefer my way of traveling which is to go on my own. I guess because I don't enjoy reading much I thought a tour of these areas I was interested would inform me more than if I went on my own...and I needed a kick start I think. So it did serve that need I think and now I am on my own.

I have decided to start telling men I am of the monastery ... maybe the "God" thing will help deter the CONSTANT sexual harassment. So I am again wearing my Mom's ring and suddenly feel a bit less outgoing if it means to have peace and respect. We'll see.

I'll post Ephesus photos next ... I didn't much care for the tour guide. He was too knowledgeable and would talk and talk and talk for several minutes without moving from place to place. I also went to the location where the Virgin Mary died ... I'll share more about this tour later.

I am NOW on the bus to Marmaris in hopes for some peace and quiet. I don't know h0w I have internet but it's cool!

I have been sad these last few days...really missing my Mom. There is so much I would have been excited to share with her. Particularly the rich Christian history here in Turkey. She was a devout Catholic and so with this being the first time I have not been calling back home to share with her that I am OK or to share with her some of the cool things has been hard ... a lot of tears of late.

OK so there it is!

Pitstop in Pamakkale

I promised the photos of the second day in Cappadocia which included a marvelous 6km hike through mountains, crawling through caves and then in the afternoon we explored the underground city. Amazing!

The overnight bus to Pamakkale was not bad at all. Compared to the first ride from Istanbul to Cappadocia where the bus driver took a wrong exit and ON THE FREEWAY, put the giganitc bus in reverse for over 1.5 km. Every vehicle passing honked so I don't think this is common practice...it was weird and scary. I was on the passenger side of the bus so it wasn't as scary as the wide eyed tourist on the drivers side. That ride in so many ways was AWFUL! But this one was great. The smoking driver (in a non-smoking bus) even rolled down the window when I politely asked him. He didn't blare the radio nor did he talk loudly in the middle of the night like the other one. We even got in 2 hours before schedule which aloud me to sleep horizontally for 3 more hours.

The tour was really nice. We explored the an ancient city ... see photos. But what caught my eye was the para sailing taking off the cliff above the ancient city ruins. So...I decided to stay an extra day so I can do that today!! Little scary that they don't have lessons but I brought my helmet! There is a guide apparently so I am going for it. It'll be a bit chilly but I am dressed for the occasion and can't wait. The driver will come anytime to pick me up. So if this blog entry suddenly stops that is why...I'll pick it up later. But anyhow, Pamakkale was only meant to be a day tour and off to Ephesus but I couldn't resist and I wanted to try out the Turkish bath that was billed to be above average. It was fine ... I didn't have enough money to have a scrub-down but it was OK, I didn't like that I'd be topless and know men would be gawking like they were with other women. I think if I do it again, I'll do a woman only day.

So here are some photos...



These are photos of the Melis Hotel where I stayed. This is where I had breakfast. There is a sitting area (L) the meal area with a bar in the back (C) and the eating area.
This is what I have to eat EVERY morning for breakfast. It gets old but at least it is a balanced meal and pretty healthy. This is a larger than average portion.

This home is across the street from my hotel. I loved watching the women work...there wasn't a man to be seen at this home.


Here is Can...the sexy receptionist with whom I couldn't resist having a glass of wine (yes he is breaking the rules by drinking on the job).

This are all from the hike I took. You'll notice though a different day I am wearing virtually the same clothes ... ya wear the clothes until you can smell them... and since it is on the cooler side, I can wear them for days. Saves on laundry where in the past, my clothes have been lost. I wash a lot of my clothes on my own while showering.

This is a photo taken in the underground city tour. The people could stay here for months. I have a lot of video footage of this unbelievable underground city. The ventilation is surprisingly good with shafts and air-holes all over the caves. This photo is a typical room where 3-4 families would live. Thousands of people would live in this city at a time!


These two photos (above / below) are taken on my "liminal" walk. See what I mean ... the juxtaposition of modern day and ancient day is omnipresent.

This I loved! Eternity!


NOW ONTO PAMAKKALE... This is my driver below...he says funny things over and over. "Look at me, (extending his hand to shake) I am Jack Nicholson but skinnier and more good looking." After the 3rd time I had to feign a laugh but whatever...these guys work 7 days a week, 12 hour days and are happy ... give me Jack if that's what makes your day ya know?!

He also often sings happy birthday and his own variation of jingle bells.

"Jingle bell Jingle bell, jingle jingle jingle (and continuing his tune he'll add) ...and that is all I know."

Thought I'd try the natural mud in nature!

OK ... I think my driver has arrived and this is a great place to stop...Next up will be photos from the ancient city and perhaps my flying through the air ...

It's a bit overcast right now but I am going for it!~!!

Wish me luck ... I hope the guide speaks English!!

Here is one more photo to serve as a tease of the ancient city (this is the old amphitheater sitting on the hillside) ... see the paraglider in the upper right hand corner --that's gonna be me in a matter of hours!!

Living the Liminal...

I am starting with my tour photos from the first day and then end with some reflection as I took a walk down into town today.

I'll post the second day tour photos, which was a hike through the mountains and underground city tour, later...along with some video footage... I hope.



I don't know how it happens but I tend to do pretty well greeting folks whose country I visit ... this is the Master potter who made a teapot in no time flat. He is a 5th generation potter and uses leg power to turn the wheel--kinda like an Irish dancer...kinda! (video footage soon coming). I am holding a gift he gave me and my 3rd glass of wine ... the wine is AWESOME here (this region in particular is wine country). It just kept coming following my glass salute into the air and a boisterous, "I LOVE!!" After downing the first shot glass size offered to us tourist there was another and another that came my way as my Einstein look a like master potter gave me a special tour. I was very well buzzed by the time I was done with this part of the tour. Thank God lunch followed...and thank God the other tourist liked me and laughed when I stumbled into the minibus, collapsed in my seat and declared, "Ahhhh too much wine--bring on lunch!"

Unintentionally walking like an Egyptian ... Fertility God is behind me ... Oh-oh!


The entire day was in some kind of cave. This 4 course meal was no exception. A bit moist and smells very ... cave-like but amazing setting and ambiance. The acoustics were perfect for the musician playing some kind of funky keyboard just a few feet behind the servers. There were 7 of us on this tour the first day. Family of 3 Chinese Canadians, A Moroccan woman, Ali--Canadian Turk, and myself--crazy American. Guess what?! They don't hate Americans here!! At least not since Bush-whacker has left office.

Leaving the restaurant ...
There is always light at the end of the tunnel isn't there?! Love this photo!


L to R:
Ali is a cool kid. He is a 22 yr old Canadian Turk and was fun to joke around with and great to have as my personal interpreter. When the tour guide put his arm around me and asked me in English to use my imagination, "Can you see your husband and you having honeymoon here?" I replied, "Ok, Ersin, I am using my imagination but all I can see is a BIG- BLACK-HOLE..." Then with a swooshing sound threw my hand at the entrance of the cave like abyss. Ali liked that joke and so from that point on Ali and I were buds ... except when he was lighting up another cigarette. What is with all the smokers?!?!
Next photo: I am standing in front of a 17th floor cave! Amazing intricacy inside. Next Photo: The mountain sides looked like this. This was a popular place for the Christians to escape the crusaders because it was easy to allude the enemy with so many passage ways (tunnels) and because of it's location being far away from the sea where industry was strongest. Next photo: Looks are deceiving...climbing up into some of these caves took some rock climbing skill. I LOVED the challenge. (video footage of me going up soon coming) Only a few of us made it to the top of this one. I figured, what the Hell, that's why I bought medical Travel Insurance! Seriously though, they probably should have safety harnesses because it sometimes would be a long long fall. Last photo is of the 17th story cave.


These are all from the cave monastery dating back between the 10th to 13th century. Since most of the population was illiterate, they used pictures to tell their story (I sure would have appreciated that!!) The nuns and priest also painted their own images to share a story as depicted in the last photos.

Inside a cave home--electricity and even satellite TV. Looking into the kitchen area.

The first photo is the 2nd floor sitting area. The second photo, I am on the 4th floor which requires climbing to get there. Not exactly cozy being that it is stone and moist but the views are spectacular! While they do have stoves to heat the place the gapping holes create wild gusts of wind.


I had in mind writing about something else today ... but as I was walking down the street today- on my last free day here in Cappodocia Turkey, I was strcuk by something.

And to set the scene in this very moment I am being serenaded by Hildagard music that just started playing here in the garden at the 300 year old Melmis Greek Stone Home turned hotel where I am staying.

This mornings email meditation was the only email I received in my inbox today...I don't recall that ever happening before but perhaps it was so that I give my undivided attention to it and not the news of the grant not coming through in Arizona, or IRS needing my signature or whatever other things that have gotten me stuck in the muck of thinking. Here's the meditation from Renaissance Unity:

Friday, March 12, 2010 – Opportunity
"When was the last time you embraced a situation that you didn't like? Did you complain through the entire experience or did you run away from the situation altogether? If you did either, you missed a wonderful opportunity to be something that you've never been before. And who knows? It just might have been that one thing that you had been wishing for."
~Les Brown

I feel that most every aspect of my life is in the liminal... the root of this Latin word mean "threshold." A loose definition from Wiki (which I contributed to BTW, also in my dissertation) The liminal state is characterized by ambiguity, openness, and indeterminacy... Liminality is a period of transition where normal limits to thought, self-understanding, and behavior are relaxed - a situation which can lead to new perspectives.

Prior to entering Turkey I wondered which Turkey might feel more similar; Europe or Asia. What I am feeling is that it too is in the liminal. As a Turk living in this country I am sure they feel there own identity within it, but for me it really feels like it is a country shifting between it's ancient culture and modern day faculties. It feels European and Asian but for me, not one or the other is more prominent. The many juxtaposition of this in flux like liminality is all around me.

I feel this vortex that seems to suck me into its essence leaving me with a feeling of emptyness or not knowing. In India I felt a bit like I had come home...Laos, was a land of wonderland, Thailand a place of relaxation and adventure, Cambodia, mystery and pain...Turkey is my black hole. A place I can say I love but I am left with this feeling of being sucked into an abyss--a vortex, and place where the vibration of ancient life is as thick and vibrant as the present.

I stand in a Monks cave from the 10th century and faintly hear Gregorian chants--the vibration is intentionally kept alive ... I don't know how but it is so alive here. It is as if by keeping it alive, we somehow CANNOT forget what was...and what was is so imperative to grasp and understand from where we as a people came. The Turks GET that!

In my dissertation I have described liminality as a place where the soul grows. But its outgrowth--the wisdom that will percolate and surface is yet to be consciously known. This is where I am at with Tureky, in my career, and personal life. Some of my deeply spiritually conscious friends have asked, "Isn't it exciting?" I would say, I think it can be but I really don't have a conscious thought of what it is yet ... it just is and I am really just paying close attention to my emotions and the more I trust and have Faith the less fear I have... but I would be lying if I said that fear-based emotions didn't creep in -- in this year where I have lost so so much they do, again and again--in my dreams, in my conscious life and are interwoven into my daily existence.

But here I am. I'm not in Azerbaijan serving in the Peace Corps, no longer am I caring for my terminally ill Mother at the home I grew up, all my belonging are locked in a dark storage unit, my car in Arizona, and I am here ... in Turkey not knowing even what day of the week it is ... I only have a faint idea of the date because I know my Birthday is on the horizon and I wanted to be somewhere relaxing for that day ... but upon reflection, I am not sure I want to be defined by my birth-day so maybe I will continue to travel and just not know what day in this life I am a year older...who cares really. I mean isn't every day to celebrate? .... I have spent many a birthday alone. My parents, both now deaseased, owned a tax office so in my family my B-day has been lost in the shuffle of tax season for years. Strange to think this is the first year I don't have a parent not working the tax season. Maybe I will bring them into my consciousness on my Birthday and celebrate life and the liminal with them this year...because maybe it is in the liminal where birthing anew is really discovered and where WISDOM begins to deepen its roots--growing through experience and marked in an anthromorphic scale called time. BIRTH DAY.

Maybe in this etheral place of the liminal we, my Mom and Dad and I can celebrate...in a geographic place called Turkey where the mountains sing and the people glow. Maybe this is what life beholds for me right now ... just being in "it" whatever "it" IS, is my journey. I accept it.

And as the Afternoon prayer begins, a rooster crows, birds chirp, music plays at the garden, I slowly sip my glass of wine and all that this day offers. Soon I will be on a night bus heading to the coast. Ephesus is next!

Cheers! In Turkish Cheers is pronounced like 'Shut-up.' And so that is just what I will do and save that other post of crazy experiences for another day...